LA FERIA DE ABRIL - SEVILLA

Seville is the capital of Andalusia undoubtedly, even though my judgement was formed by a quick strolling to the city’s attractions, accompanied by my local friends. I had the unique privilege to visit Seville, as an invited guest, in its most flamboyant season, to attend 'La Feria de abril 2011'. Although at first glance, the event looks public & accessible to everyone, in reality it is profoundly exclusive to ‘Sevillanos’, as they solely sponsor it. 

The visitors can get into the grounds of the event for a window shopping experience but they cannot gain access into the individual tents, unless their friends & relatives have sponsored them and they are willing to spare their precious tickets. In fairness there are scattered public tends but the guests there, certainly do not enjoy the flavours and the ambient of a private one. La Feria seems that expelled from a fairy tale where wealth and status are exhibited to their full glory.

The monumental annual gate which is visible from Calatrava's bridge on river Guadalquivir, celebrates the greatness of this colourful funfair with all the visitors posing in front of it to take a photograph for their album collection. Getting through the gate, the visitor comes across with a city of tents (casetas) well organised in parcels allowing wide avenues for the numerous horse carriages to parade the festivities.

Many of the tents 1048 in number accommodate bars, dance floors and live music. The majority of the ‘casetas’, are set up and arranged by those individuals who have generously sponsored them out of family custom or as an evocative gesture of their social status. Portraits of the sponsors are displayed in a prominent place, carefully overlooked by all visitors who buying drinks & ‘tapas’. The tents are colourful and very often are decorated to a style driven by sponsors' personal taste which gives character and identity. As the competition is strong, creativity and imagination have to triumph to make the ‘casetas’ distinctive enough, to the thousand standing proud next to each other.

The wealthiest of ‘Sevillanos’ arrive to their privately owned ‘casetas’ in 6 horse carriages but only after they have been seen and talked about by the crowds and the bourgeoisie. However, it is still a spectacular view for the attendees to watch.

The event preserves an affirmed formal dressing code which evokes its significance amongst other city’s public affairs. The majority of men wear blue blazer jacket with khaki pair of pants, a style of status that draws its existence out of national trends and historical traditions. Of course, there are different dressing requirements for those arriving by riding a horse. Their dressing style for both women & men looks more reserved and authoritarian. On the contrary with the English Edwardian style where the horse riders’ blazer had a single vent at the back enabling the jacket to drape over the horse, the Spaniard horse riders’ blazer is short enough to overcome this problem.

The female population that touches feet on the ground is the major attraction of the festival. Colourful layers of cloth pleated to legs and arms sweep hedonistically the air which is charged with alcohol and cooking aromas from early afternoon. The dresses may give a folklore impression to outsiders but it's actually the hot topic of fashion discussions amongst every born & bread ‘Sevillana’. You soon find out that the dresses have different fit and finishes for every year. 

A proud ‘Sevillana’ that takes ‘La Feria’ seriously, will have at least a purposed made dress for each year, so she can change her look every day for each of the seven days that the fun lasts. The most fortunate ones will turn up with three or more new dresses of the latest fashion demands that will raise many eyebrows out of envy.

My favourite activity and the highlight of the fairground apart from drinking and eating, was without doubt the ‘sevillana’, a flamenco style dance that is danced by people of all ages in couples. The choreography, even though stable, demonstrates passion and vividness expressed with rich hand movements and constant sharp turns between the dancing partners.

The essence of Seville’s life style, customs and habits is well wrapped in this festive jewel away from the Catedral, the Giralda, Torre Del Oro and the historic past of the city.